Euphyllia corals are some of the most popular and visually captivating LPS (Large Polyp Stony) corals in the reefing hobby. With their flowing tentacles and dynamic movement, they add life and color to any reef tank. This guide covers the care of the three main Euphyllia types—Torch, Hammer, and Frogspawn—including lighting, water flow, placement, feeding, and how to avoid common health problems.
| Coral Type | PAR Range | Flow Type | Placement |
|---|---|---|---|
| SPS | 250–400 | Strong | Top |
| LPS | 75–150 | Moderate | Middle |
Species | Tentacle Shape | Behavior | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
Torch | Long, flowing tips | Aggressive | Moderate |
Hammer | Anchor or T-shape | Semi-aggressive | Moderate |
Frogspawn | Bubble-tipped | Semi-aggressive | Moderate |
⚠️ All Euphyllia corals have sweeper tentacles that can sting nearby corals, so placement must allow for buffer space.
PAR Range: 80–150
Lighting Type: T5, LED, or hybrid
Best Spectrum: Blue-dominant for fluorescence and growth
Too much light: Can cause bleaching or polyp retraction
Too little light: Leads to dull color, slow growth
💡 Gradually acclimate new Euphyllia to your lighting to prevent shock.
Moderate, indirect flow
Aim for a gentle sway in the tentacles—not whipping or collapsing
Flow Type | Effect on Coral |
|---|---|
Too High | Tissue damage, retraction |
Too Low | Detritus buildup, poor gas exchange |
Just Right | Healthy polyp extension, waste removal |
Middle to lower third of tank is ideal
Provide 4–6 inches of space from other corals due to sweeper tentacles
Avoid sharp edges or rough rock to prevent skeleton injury
🔧 Mount securely to prevent tipping over in moderate flow.
Though photosynthetic, Euphyllia benefit from target feeding 1–2x per week:
Reef Roids
Mysis shrimp
Fauna Marin LPS pellets
Reef Chili
Use a pipette or coral feeder to deliver food directly to the tentacles when extended.
Issue | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
Polyp retraction | Stress, water parameter swings | Stabilize tank; check flow/light |
Brown jelly disease | Bacterial infection | Frag affected area, iodine dip |
Tissue recession | Poor lighting, aggression | Reposition; improve flow and lighting |
Flatworms/pests | Hitchhikers or infestation | Coral dips before introduction |
🧪 Dip all new Euphyllia with iodine-based or broad-spectrum coral dips.
arameter | Target Range |
|---|---|
Temperature | 76–78°F |
Salinity | 1.025 |
Alkalinity | 8–9.5 dKH |
Calcium | 420–460 ppm |
Magnesium | 1300–1400 ppm |
Nitrate | 5–15 ppm |
Phosphate | 0.03–0.08 ppm |
Euphyllia are more tolerant of minor parameter fluctuations than SPS but still require stability to thrive.
Use a band saw or coral cutter to cut through the skeleton base, not the tissue
Allow 1–2 weeks in a low-light, low-flow frag tank to heal
Wear gloves and goggles to avoid injury from slime or debris
Type | Popular Morphs |
|---|---|
Torch | Gold, Dragon Soul, NY Knicks |
Hammer | Wall, Branching, Toxic Green |
Frogspawn | Octospawn, Bi-color, Splatter |
🌈 Premium Euphyllia often show fluorescence under actinic lighting and are highly sought after in the hobby.
Euphyllia corals strike a perfect balance between beauty, motion, and moderate care requirements. By giving them stable water, moderate lighting and flow, and room to expand, you’ll enjoy years of vibrant, swaying life in your reef tank.
Whether you’re growing a single head or a colony, Torch, Hammer, and Frogspawn corals bring unmatched movement and color to your underwater world.
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